Creation of sculpted jewellery items.
The various types of wax and their ductility in moulding, the techniques for using lost-wax casting, the preparation of the wax and the systems for making it more or less mouldable, the modelling equipment, the weight ratios between the wax prototypes and the final product.
The techniques for using lost-wax casting, the instruments and machinery used throughout the entire process: from the moulding to the casting in hot silicon moulds and reproduction of the wax models with an injector.
Cleaning and finishing operations of the item created.
Enamelling is an old technique that was very popular in ancient Egypt. It was applied to all or part of metal surfaces and carried out with materials similar to glass which were transparent or opaque, but usually coloured. The various colours of the dyes were obtained from the various compositions of metal oxides. We apply enamel to highlight a special feature on gold and silver items.
The processing steps include the preparation of the powders, pickling of the metal surfaces to be enamelled, and application of the powders to the surfaces. This is followed by repeated firing of the items in the kiln to melt and then solidify the enamel after which we finish the enamelled parts with abrasive agents and hydrofluoric acid. The following techniques are used for the hot enamelling: cloisonné, champlevé, cathedral e miniature.
Engraving is a technique used in the jewellery trade to embellish and decorate all types of items.
It entails the removal of material from the item itself, in the traditional manner without the use of machines but instead manually with small burins and chisels.
The engraving is performed on flat or curved sheets, following a previously traced design. With this type of engraving it is also possible to create monograms and signet rings for sealing wax, and even steel dyes for stamping medals and various other decorations. Engraving is used to prepare the items for the application of enamels, cloisonné or champlevé.
Engraving is a technique that can be used in various ways on different types of materials. It serves for creating graffiti clichés on copper and other metals, and for printing words and designs on paper with the ancient "press" technique. It is also used for creating dedications, monograms and coats of arms, for example, on silverware.
The stone-setting (olso stone-embedding), is a procedure for fixing the gemstones in various ways inside the cavities previously prepared by the goldsmith. The setting must ensure that the fit (sit) are a perfect match with the shape, size, and cut of the individual gemstones. The skill and expertise that setters must possess stem first and foremost from their precision, care and experience in using the traditional techniques, instruments, tools and equipment. However, what distinguishes skilled setters is their ability to create their own personal solutions. Among the various types of settings there are the prong, bezel, channel, bead, burnish and invisible settings.
The fretwork (olso perforation) is essential for the construction of jewellery; it is indispensable for cutting out the various parts making up the jewel from the raw sheet, which will then be assembled and welded together.
Perforation allows for obtaining the most various types of decorations in order to make the jewel lighter, and more elegant with an alternating of full and empty parts. After having drawn the desired design on the sheet, the blade of a saw is used to perforate the sheet, carefully following the outline of the decoration or the traced item.
The perforation also makes it possible to prepare for embellishing special types of settings. The embellishing consists of the widening of the part under the perforation; in this way the gemstone is able to obtain light from underneath and at the back of the jewel as well, thereby being enhanced with a particularly valuable finish.
Embossing and chiselling are techniques that in gold work are generally used together: the first is done on the back of a sheet of metal ("verso") on which a drawing or design has been traced, while the second is carried out on the front side ("recto") of the same sheet of metal.
Embossing is an antique technique by which a drawing or design is reproduced in relief by deforming a sheet of metal without heating it: the sheet of metal is secured to a mobile support whose surface is made of a malleable substance and the work is carried out on the reverse side of the sheet, (verso) with mallets and rounded-tip punches, utilizing the malleability of the metal or alloy.
Chiselling, also an antique technique, is a complimentary procedure which follows the embossing process, as it is used to carry out the finishing touches on the reverse side of the sheet of metal by mallets and chisels or punches similar to the previous ones but smaller and with different shapes: on the front of the metal sheet (recto) which has been shaped by the embossing, the contours of the drawing or decorative pattern are refinished and new ones which are smaller and more precise are added by light tapping of the chisel.
This technique consists of ‘paving’ the entire surface with tightly-packed rows of stones, in such a way that every single surface, whatever its size, is entirely covered with the precious stone.
The use of this technology permits greater precision in the traditional steps of piercing and setting. Indeed, the microscope is only not used for magnification but more specifically for mounting the precious stones on ornaments and items of jewellery. The engraver’s ball and the tools of the trade (electronic compressed-air burin) are used simultaneously to achieve maximum precision.
The micro pavé technique also makes it possible to reduce to a minimum the amount of metal visible between the stones by creating tiny ‘grains’ or beads to hold them in place, so miniscule that they become almost invisible to the naked eye.
Each bead is rounded and perfectly and evenly smoothed, eliminating all imperfections and roughness, so that even the most delicate fabric can slide over them without getting snagged.
|Wax and micro-casting||108 hours in 12 weeks||€ 1470|
|Enamelling||108 hours in 12 weeks||€ 1600|
|Engraving||96 hours in 12 weeks||€ 1420|
|Stone-setting||132 hours in 12 weeks||€ 2100|
|Fretwork||96 hours in 12 weeks||€ 1530|
|Micro-pavé||36 hours in 4 weeks||€ 850|
|Chiselling and embossing||36 hours in 4 weeks||€ 900|